Zigui's laid-back charms could hold you for a lifetime, slowing your pulse in the torpid heat, smilingly offering you a beer by the river as the sun settles down for the night. Yet we wanted to see a little more of the Casamance, and head a bit off the beaten track. Initially we had planned to head to the empty white sand beaches of Cap Skiring, but we decided to check out the seat of the Jola priest-kings, Oussouye, instead. The road winded past crocodile farms and dense hardwood forests to a town that for the first time felt entirely African, a village grown large, with a dilapidated Hotel de Ville the only sign of colonial influence. We settled into our very own Case à Impluvium, complete with pet monkey and crocodile, and sampled a more traditional way of living.
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